Review · LA MADDALENA
From La Maddalena or Palau: Archipelago Boat Tour
Paradise comes with a timetable. This eight-hour cruise from La Maddalena or Palau takes you through some of Sardinia’s finest coves aboard the Città di Chiavari, an 18-meter wooden gozzo built in 1960. I like the mix of swimming, beach time, and history, especially the walk at Candeo Fortress. I also like that the boat is small enough to reach narrow coastal passages, including the route beneath the Caprera bridge. The main caution is crowding: on busy summer days, more than 60 people may be aboard, and recorded commentary can be hard to follow in French.
The $106 price is fair for a full day on the water with four swim stops and a scenic route through the archipelago. Still, food and drinks cost extra, and you must pay a separate €5 La Maddalena city tax onboard. Arrive early, bring cash, and expect the schedule to move with the weather.
Key points at a glance

- A 1960 Ligurian gozzo: The vintage Città di Chiavari gives the cruise a handsome, traditional feel while carrying you through narrow coastal passages.
- Four water stops: You get swimming time at the Capitano pools, Candeo, the Natural Pools of Madonna port, and Cala Corsara.
- Candeo combines history and lunch: You have free time for a short walk around the fortress and a swim near the cliffs.
- The last stop is the big prize: Cala Corsara on Spargi offers a final beach landing around 4 p.m., often the most memorable part of the day.
- Two departure points: Leave from La Maddalena at 9:30 a.m. or Palau at 10 a.m., with check-in 30 minutes before departure.
- Expect a lively boat: The crew is praised for its friendly attitude, but summer departures can be crowded and onboard explanations may not always be easy to hear.
Why this boat tour is worth your day

The La Maddalena Archipelago is best understood from the water. Its islands sit close together, and the scenery changes quickly from rocky headlands to pale beaches, shallow pools, and small passages between islands. A road trip can show you bits of Sardinia, but it cannot reach these coves in the same way.
This cruise gives you a full eight hours in the archipelago for $106 per person. That works out well if you want a complete day outdoors rather than a short transfer to one beach. You get a moving view of Santo Stefano, Caprera, Budelli, Santa Maria, and Spargi, plus four chances to swim.
I especially like the balance of active and easygoing time. You can climb off for a walk at Candeo Fortress, then spend the rest of the day swimming or sitting on the boat. You are not locked into a single long beach stop, though some people may find the waits between activities a little slow.
The overall rating is 4.3 from 177 bookings, which fits the experience nicely. The scenery and crew earn strong praise, while the weak points are mostly practical: crowding, a late start on at least one departure, long waits at some stops, and language problems with the recorded commentary.
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Setting out from La Maddalena or Palau

You have two departure choices. From La Maddalena, the boat leaves Molo delle Poste at 9:30 a.m. From Palau, departure is at 10 a.m. Your exact meeting point depends on the option booked, so check it carefully before heading to the harbor.
You must check in 30 minutes before departure. If you are leaving from Palau, allow time to park the car at the tourist port before check-in. This is not the morning for a last-minute coffee across town. Missing the check-in window could create real trouble on a fixed boat schedule.
The return is planned for around 6 or 6:15 p.m. The timetable can change with wind and sea conditions. That flexibility matters in this part of Sardinia, where safety and comfort depend on the water. A change may mean a different order of stops or a revised route, not a failed excursion.
The operator is MJ TOURS SRLS, and the host or greeter languages are English, French, and Spanish. Captain Marco leads the trip, sharing information about the islands and the sights along the route.
A vintage boat with real character

The Città di Chiavari is not a modern ferry. This 18-meter gozzo was built in 1960 by Ligurian boatbuilders using traditional seafaring methods. Its long, graceful shape gives the outing a sense of occasion, and its size allows it to pass through coastal routes that would not suit a much larger vessel.
That old-fashioned design is a major part of the appeal. You are not simply being moved from one beach to another. The boat itself becomes part of the day, with the coast passing close by and the Caprera bridge forming one of the route’s signature moments.
There is a tradeoff. A vintage motorboat can feel more personal than a large ferry, but it is still a shared excursion. One August departure carried more than 60 people, including a loud group. If you want peace and lots of empty deck space, this may not be the right format in the busiest summer weeks.
The crew receives warm marks for its friendliness, even when communication is not perfect. English is available, but one recent experience had very little spoken English and no crew member speaking French, while the French recording was difficult to understand. If the commentary matters greatly to you, treat the narration as a bonus rather than the main reason to book.
Santo Stefano and the Caprera bridge

The cruise begins with a scenic run around Santo Stefano Island. Captain Marco provides context about its Napoleonic-era fortifications, giving you an early reminder that this is not only a beach day. The islands have long mattered for defense and navigation, and the old military traces add shape to the scenery.
Next comes the passage under the Caprera bridge. This is one of the route’s distinctive moments because the boat’s size allows it to use the narrow waterway. From the western coast of Caprera, you get views of rocky shores and small natural formations that are difficult to appreciate from land.
This first part of the trip is mostly sightseeing from the boat. Keep your camera ready, but do not spend the whole morning looking at a screen. The value is in the changing angles of the islands, with the boat bringing you close to the waterline.
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The Capitano pools provide the first swim

The first swim stop is at the Capitano pools. The name gives you a good idea of the setting: calm, clear water enclosed by rock. This is your first chance to cool off after the morning cruise and get comfortable with the rhythm of the day.
You should bring a swimsuit under your clothes and keep a towel easy to reach. The tour includes four swimming stops, so you will not want to unpack and repack your entire bag at every cove.
The swim breaks are one of the strongest reasons to choose this trip. You are not merely looking at the archipelago from the deck. You get time in the water at several different settings, with rocky pools, sandy beaches, and protected coves each offering a slightly different feel.
Candeo Fortress adds history and a walk

Candeo Fortress is the most unusual stop because it combines a historic site, a short walk, a swim, and time for lunch. The fortress fits into the rocky surroundings rather than appearing as a separate monument, so the setting feels tied to the island itself.
You have free time to follow the characteristic path near the fort and look around at your own pace. It is not presented as a long guided hike. Think of it as a chance to stretch your legs and see a piece of military history before returning to the water.
You can also swim here and eat lunch near the cliff edge. Food is not included, and drinks are available for purchase onboard. Pasta may be prepared for an extra charge, which could be useful if you prefer to buy lunch rather than pack it yourself.
This stop can also feel slow. One recent departure had a wait of roughly 90 minutes from the fortress onward. That may be welcome if you want a long break, but frustrating if you hoped to keep moving. The day is designed for lingering, not for racing from one sight to the next.
Budelli, Santa Maria, and the Natural Pools of Madonna port

In the afternoon, the boat continues toward Budelli and Santa Maria. These islands are known for their striking water and unusual coastal forms, and the route includes a view of the famous pink beach.
The boat does not promise a landing on the pink beach. That distinction matters. You will glimpse it while cruising, then continue to the Natural Pools of Madonna port for the third swimming stop. The pools are a strong place to enjoy the water without needing a long walk or complicated transfer.
This part of the day is scenic and unhurried. You can swim, sit in the sun, or watch the rocks and water from the boat. The main limitation is that the experience depends on where the boat can safely position itself and how crowded the area is that day.
I would treat the pink beach as a bonus view rather than the central purpose of the cruise. If standing on that beach is your main goal, you need a different plan. Here, the focus is the wider group of islands and the water around them.
Cala Corsara on Spargi is the grand finale

Around 4 p.m., the boat reaches Cala Corsara on Spargi for the fourth and final stop. You land on an exclusive beach and have time to enjoy the cove before the return to port.
This is often the emotional high point of the day. By late afternoon, you have already seen several islands, but Cala Corsara gives you a final stretch of sand and a chance to slow down. The clear water, rock formations, and quiet setting make it an excellent last stop before the boat turns back.
The timing is also practical. A late beach landing means you are not rushing straight from the final swim into the return voyage. You get a proper break, then head back toward port for the planned 6 to 6:15 p.m. arrival.
Keep in mind that the word exclusive describes the beach stop in the tour plan, not a guarantee that you will have the entire cove to yourself. Summer conditions can bring many boats into the archipelago, and the overall excursion may carry a large group.
What to eat, bring, and pay for

The $106 fare includes the cruise, live commentary, four swim stops, and free time at Candeo Fortress. It does not include food or drinks, and you should carry cash for purchases and the €5 La Maddalena city tax paid onboard.
A few simple items will make the day easier:
- Passport or ID card
- Hat and sunscreen
- Sports shoes for the Candeo path
- Swimsuit and towel
- Cash for the tax, food, and drinks
Sports shoes are more useful than flip-flops if you plan to walk around Candeo Fortress. Sunscreen matters even when the boat is moving, since you will spend much of the day in open light.
The tour is not suitable for pregnant women, people with back problems, wheelchair users, people with visual impairments, people prone to seasickness, babies under one year, people over 95, or people with insect allergies. If you are unsure about the physical demands, ask before booking rather than discovering the problem at the dock.
Free cancellation is available up to 24 hours before departure, and you can reserve now and pay later. That helps if your Sardinia plans are still shifting, but it does not remove the need to check the weather and the meeting point.
Who will enjoy this cruise most
I would recommend this outing to you if you want to see several parts of the archipelago in one day without arranging separate boats, beach transfers, and historical stops. It suits swimmers, photographers, couples, and families with older children who can manage a full day on a boat.
It is also a good choice if you value atmosphere. The Città di Chiavari gives the day more personality than a plain transport vessel, and the route includes enough variety to keep the day from becoming four identical swims.
You may want another option if you dislike crowds, suffer from seasickness, or need guaranteed quiet. The boat can carry a sizable group, and the commentary may be hard to understand in some languages. You should also think twice if you want a strict schedule, since weather can alter the route and some stops may last longer than expected.
Should you book the La Maddalena boat tour?
Book it if your ideal Sardinian day includes clear water, several coves, a traditional boat, a little military history, and a final beach stop at Cala Corsara. The best value comes from the full itinerary: four swims, multiple islands, and eight hours on the water for $106.
Skip it if you want a small private boat, a quiet setting, or a tour built mainly around detailed guiding. Arrive early, bring cash, pack light, and keep your expectations focused on scenery and swimming rather than polished multilingual narration. For many people, the friendly crew, the handsome old boat, and the string of beautiful coves will make the compromises worthwhile.
FAQ
Where does the boat tour depart from?
You can depart from La Maddalena, Molo delle Poste, at 9:30 a.m., or from Palau, Molo 5, at 10 a.m. The exact meeting point depends on the option booked.
How early should I arrive?
You must check in 30 minutes before the scheduled departure. If leaving from Palau, have your car parked at the tourist port before check-in.
How long does the excursion last?
The experience lasts eight hours. The planned return to port is around 6 or 6:15 p.m.
How many swimming stops are included?
Four swimming stops are included. They take place at the Capitano pools, around Candeo Fortress, the Natural Pools of Madonna port, and Cala Corsara on Spargi.
Can I visit the famous pink beach?
The route gives you a chance to see the pink beach while cruising near Budelli. A landing on the pink beach is not included in the described schedule.
Is lunch included?
No. Food and drinks are available for purchase onboard. Pasta may be prepared for an additional charge.
What extra payment is required?
A €5 La Maddalena city tax is not included in the excursion price and must be paid onboard. Bring cash for this and for food or drinks.
What languages are available?
The host or greeter languages are English, French, and Spanish. The quality of spoken or recorded explanations may vary during the trip.
Can the itinerary change?
Yes. The route may change according to weather conditions, with safety and passenger comfort taking priority.
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